stained glass and cathedrals |
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related Rouen pages :
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why Norman cathedrals?Normandy has a complex history, which you can read in a hundred books. In this page, I shall look at the main gothic cathedrals of Normandy. At the time when they were built, you could regard Normandy as almost being a separate country, after all the Normans were originally Norse men invaders - Vikings! It is useful to regard cathedrals as magnificent structures that continually gather barnacles of decoration. These decorative additions would grow into a coat inside and out, as fashions and technology change, as occasional major works are added, and as parts of the structure collapse from poor construction. The churches are living organisms serving communities, not some work of public art nor mere ritual stage, but a place of market and refuge and public performances. Regular public enthusiasms try to wipe out the monuments of the predecessors from which the new ideology has grown; but after the latest, Revolutionary, iconoclasts, cathedrals and churches are usually too attractive and useful. Thus, despite fire and storm, war and vandalism, and great social change, most of the cathedrals are rebuilt, restored and enhanced by their local communities and by the State. Officially, cathedrals are the main church in a diocese, the seat of a bishop. Over the centuries, dioceses change and evolve. In Normandy, at the time of the great building (approximately 1170 - 1270), the dioceses were The most recent reordering of the dioceses was in 2002 by John Paul II.
Normandy and France have been the site of numerous wars and revolutions, doing much damage to Normandy's heritage. I have read many sources and it is obvious that in amongst the history all manner of myths and accretions sneak into the histories and even guide books. So don't take every detail too seriously; I won't, particularly when it is amusing. |
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Map of Northern France - cathedral towns and zones affected
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Cathédrale Notre-Dame de CoutancesCoutances cathedral has a fine position overlooking the town and countryside. Saint Malo and the island of Jersey can be seen from the top of the cathedral tower. Mont Saint Michel can be visited a few miles down the coast. Coutances exercised ecclesiastical jurisdiction over this area and the Channel Islands until 1569, when Elizabeth I took that jurisdiction for England. The town of Coutances was badly smashed up during the June days and weeks following the D-Day invasion in World War Two, but the cathedral and a couple of other historic churches escaped the worst of it. The damage done at Coutances was aggravated by the Germans trying to defend their positions. Then throughout France, there was the added problem of looting by Germans, and sometimes the French, during the chaos of the withdrawal. Naturally, the Allies tried to minimise damage as they drove out the invader, but bombing was not a precision process. The Virgin of Coutances, a 14th century marble statue, was removed from the cathedral during the French Revolution, and put in St Nicholas' Church. There, it survived the 1944 bombing, and was returned to the Cathedral in 1946.
Then there is reality! Coutances cathedral lantern towerAt the crossing of the nave going west to east, and the transept going north to south, many larger churches and cathedrals have a lantern tower built high above the floor on the four main pillars. The lantern tower lets in light while soaring up to the heavens, making a grand statement at the building's exterior. In the case of Coutances, the height of the lantern tower is 41 metres or 135 feet. Countances is a considerable five-aisle, multi-level cathedral structure, and at the lantern-tower can be counted up to five levels, as is marked in the photo above. There, one of the massive pillars is marked twice with A.
Up in lantern towers, there are various scary, narrow, stone stairways, wooden ladders, and tight squeeze spaces for accessing the upper storeys and what the French call 'the attic'. The Coutances' lantern tower is eight-sided, flanked by four narrow staircase turrets with corkscrew stairs to access the roof. The access towers at Coutances are about 2 metres in diameter, so you can imagine the tightness of the spiral and the squeeze of these stairs. The tower-lantern may have been originally crowned with an spire that would have been higher than those of the west facade. (See also Lantern towers of Normandy and elsewhere.) |
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francenew : on first arriving in France - driving Marianne - a French national symbol, with French definitive stamps the calendar of the French Revolution the 6th bridge at Rouen: Pont Gustave Flaubert, the French umbrella & Aurillac the forest in Aquitaine, as seen by francois mauriac, and today the Citroën
2CV: Pic du Midi - observing stars clearly, A64 ne, A61: world heritage fortified city mardi gras! carnival in Basque country what a hair cut! m & French pop/rock country life in France: the poultry fair short biography of Pierre (Peter) Abelard |
stained glass windows at Coutances cathedralThe Cathédrale de Notre-Dame at Coutances has some of the best thirteenth century stained glass. However, the windows are way up over the choir - binocualars are needed to see them. This inaccessibility is unusual, the result of earlier misplacement. The windows were also cut down to fit the vailable space. The more popular and better known stained glass is crude nineteenth century 'restorations'/reconstructions at more accessible levels in the apse. An example is shown in the postage stamp below.
Apart from this, the cathedral at Coutances remains a magnificent and unified structure. In my view, it is well worth visiting.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame d'Evreux
Evreux cathedral - some history The history of Évreux can read like a series of unmitigated disasters, from the burnings and sackings perpetrated by Vandals, Vikings and Plantagenets, to the devastation wreaked from the air by Luftwaffe (in 1940) and Allied air forces (in 1944). In 1119, Henry I [1068-1106] burnt the town of Evreux with the consent of its bishop, when fighting a local vassal of Louis VII of France. The firing of Evreux was done on condition of rebuilding the cathedral! The town was burnt again in 1193 by Philip Augustus after being betrayed there by King John of England. [sources: Baedeker, Michelin] In the fourteenth century, Jean the Good besieged Evreux and set fire to it (yet again) and Charles V also laid siege to the town.
On June 7th 1940, the cathedral's stained glass was taken down and stored at Niort. Two days later, on June 9th, hundreds of buildings were destroyed including the cathedral towers. Evreux burned for a week. Then in 1944, Evreux was included in the almost total destruction of Normandy towns and cities during attacks before, during and after the D-Day invasion by Allied forces. Other destroyed towns were Saint-Lo, Caen, Lisieux, Falaise, Argentan, Le Havre, and Rouen. The stained glass was returned from 1953. However, a hail storm in August 1983 destroyed many of the 14th-century stained glass windows in the choir and the south transept for which Evreux was famous. They were restored over five years by Pierre Tisserand, a master glassworker at Evreux. carved screens enclosing chapelsThe Chapelle Saint-Claude (later known as the Chapel of the Bishop-saints of Evreux) has a screen enclosure with many carved panels of fantastic little animals, astonishing to see in such a place. These panels were carved at the beginning of the XVIth century and are in the Norman style. Some panels show fauna local to Normandy, such as the hedgehog, fox and wolf, while other animals come from regions far from Normandy, like the crocodile, monkey and bear:
That these panels were intended as teaching aids is now disputed by more modern archeologists.
the bells and bell towerEvreux cathedral had and has five bells. During the German bombardments of 1940, the resulting enormous fires in the town spread to the west tower of the church. Whipped up by the wind, the fire soon leapt to the south tower's belfry and the wood supporting the bells in the north tower. The fire burnt quickly up through the floors, fuelled by old furniture stored there. After the nave's wood frame, the fire reached the bells and spread to the south transept. The gargoyles spat out melted lead from the spire's roof. Within hours, the cathedral was in ruins and the bells melted. Reconstruction started in 1944. In 1973, all was completed, including the re-founding and re-hanging of the five bells. The two larger bells, Marie and Charles, are nicknamed bourdons, or bumble bees. Marie, the great Bourdon, is inscribed as follows::
And translated into English:
The three bells in the southern tower were blessed in 1845. Cathédrale Notre-Dame de BayeuxOutside, Bayeux cathedral has two solidly soaring spires, and a monstrous pimple that is the dome above the transept tower. Notice the faked-up five door west front that suggests that the building has five aisles, where in fact there are three. The two outer porches are, in fact, blind. Bayeux is anomolous in northern Normandy in that it suffered very little in World War Two. The Allies met no resistance, however the cathedral has no stained glass worthy of comment, so I won't comment. But the cathedral's interior is a seriously impressive art gallery. In the crypt are some quality 15th-century illustrations of angels with various musical instruments, as well as apostles and saints, painted on what are sometimes called 'severies'.
One of the marvels of medieval stone masons is the filling of otherwise boring spandrels above a procession of columns with patterns called diapering. Below is an example from this cathedral. This selection shows a bas-relief of one of Bayeux's bishops. There are other bas-reliefs above other columns along the nave:
There is a range of interesting gargoyles, and carved stalls in the choir. The pulpit has an 'artistic' sounding board above the preacher, sometime referred to as 'fungoid', finished in 1786 . It could almost be in a gallery of modern art! bayeux's labyrinth
Stalls archive at Princeton University
the bayeux tapestryIn the 1070s, Bishop Odo of Bayeux, Earl of Kent, half-brother of William the Conqueror, and Regent of England during William's absences, commissioned the making of a visual record of the events that led to the conquest of England by the Normans in 1066. The needlepoint tapestry, 68 metres long by half metre high (1.6 x 224 ft) took about a year to complete. The tapestry was returned to France when the Normans ended their occupation, it was first mentioned at Bayeux in an inventory of 1476. There is a late 19th-century copy on show in Reading, England. The nineteen stitchers also took about a year to complete this full-size copy. French President, Emmnuel Macron, has agreed to lend the original Bayeux Tapestry to England while the exhibition centre at Bayeux is refurbished. However, this plan is dependant on the near 1,000-year fabric being robust enough to be moved. If after assessment, the work can travel, there will be at least two years of repairs, restoration and reinforcement before the tapestry will travel. This loan will probably happen in 2020, when the Bayeux Museum [some pages also in English] closes for refurbishment. Cathedral of Saint-Pierre, LisieuxThe cathedral at Lisieux has very little original stained glass. That which remains is mostly a small amount high up at the top of windows. According to Louis Serbat, The glass was destroyed by the "vandalism of the canons" at about 1390. Unfortunately, there is no explanation for the canons' behaviour. As well as a few undamaged medallions, some shards were found later on the ground. These were incorporated into new glazing. In pedantic terminology, to be a cathedral requires a bishopric and a diocese. But like other things, the world changes and dioceses grow , shrink and change according to the foibles of man. So we have Lisieux cathedral, but it has lost its bishopric and its diocese. Yet the mediaeval cathedral remains. Lisieux is a typical, quiet Normandy town, the cathedral is rather stark and sad, large and quite cold. The main body of the church is over 100 yards long and is often near deserted. Lisieux is fairly close to one of the main routes south from Le Havre, and you may find interests according to your spirit. Essentially, the cathedral survived the bombing of 7th June 1944 (the day following D-Day). However, the town did receive a serious battering [right]. Therese of lisieuxBorn in Lisieux is one of the modern saints of the Catholic Church. She and her family attended this cathedral church. Therese Martin completed a book, The story of a soul, shortly before she died at the age of 24. This book is regarded as having such great spiritual value that John Paul II declared Therese a Doctor of the Church. Therese had decided at the age of 9 that she wished to join a convent in order to pray for priests, and when 15 she was given a papal dispensation to enter a Carmelite convent. Her parents have also recently been 'sainted'. You can even see the positon occupied by all three Martins in the cathedral. Meanwhile, modern Bowdlerisation has erected a temple (termed a basilica) for pilgrims, to which another pope has donated one of Therese's arms as a relic. How it came to be in his possession I have to guess. Heavens knows what the saintly Therese would have made of all this vulgarity and fuss.
Cathédrale Saint-Gervais-Saint-Protais de SéesSées cathedral is rather quiet, in a small town on the direct route down from Le Havre. It appeals to my soul and, therefore, I always make efforts to drop off for renewal on the long journey south.
This cathedral has had a very battered history, in part because it was built on very insecure foundations. Because of this, in the 19th century, the chevet, the most striking part of the cathedral, was dismantled stone by stone, refounded and rebuilt. This is just the most recent of many reparative actions.
During WW2, much of the important French glass was removed for protection and much was photographed for posterity. This did not happen at Sées. Fortunately, the worst of the bombardments of the twentieth century wars did not intrude this far. The crossing of the nave and apse with the transept is called the transept square. At Sées, the (probably 12th century) builders took advantage of the substantial size of the structural pillars at the four corners of the 'square' to decorate those nearest the nave with rows of small columns just above carved stone friezes with rows of people, foliage, and animals. The grotesque heads, fantastic animals plants had been hidden by the marble facings of Monseignor Duplessis of Argentré, who was prelate here from 1775 to 1789. He received 150,000 pounds from Louis XVI to 'renovate' the cathedral. This including him refacing the choir with blue Turquin marble from Italy, also called Bardiglio marble, now disappeared, probably removed since the Revolution so protecting the friezes during that time of destruction. Monseignor Duplessis also replaced the dome covering the transept by a small spire.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de l'Assomption de Rouen
Rouen town is a rather tired museum, as is Paris. It is described as a city of spires like Oxford. I do not think that you can know the town, let alone love it, without living there for some years. Rouen and its cathedral was very battered through the ages by war, and is a bit like a boat with barnacles coating the hull. Many a sovereign, bishop and even architect generated brilliant ideas to 'improve' on the original. Rouen was very badly smashed up during World War Two. On 19th April 1944, the cathedral received at least seven direct hits, so making another right mess. Fortunately, much of the glass had been tucked away in 1939. The cathedral's iron spire is an absolute eyesore. The cathedral itself is mostly built later than others in this region, consequently its Gothic architecture deteriorated into over-decoration, sometimes called rayonnant and flamboyant. Along the length of the side aisles, high up, above the arches between the huge columns is a pretty unique arrangement of small columns and responds supporting a walkway [une coursière] The line of this walkway is marked in orange in the image on the left. From below, in the nave, a false impression is given that there is a tribune, while from the side aisle there is an illusion of greater height. Also to note is that the slim columns supporting the walkway are carved en délit, enabling long smooth columns without joints. You wouldn't catch me going up there! The subject of this sixteenth-century tympanium above the west door is unusual for the west facade, a tree of Jesse - the Final Judgement being much more common. You can see that many of the figures have been decapitated (indicated in pink). This was frequent during the French Revolution years, for the aristocracy and for saints and other worthy figures. In the thirteenth century, chapels were formed between the buttresses. In the fourteenth century, the upper windows were all widened. Hence, only the lower windows are early. The "Miracle de la gargouille", 1521 (left) The gargouille (dragon) had been terrorising the people of Rouen. To explore further the stained glass windows at Rouen cathedral, visit this Painton Cowen page. related pages about Rouen and Rouen cathedral
Other towns and cathedral towns
Caen was developed as a sort of subsidiary Norman capital by William the Bastard/Conqueror. The town developed administrative and treasury functions, but never seriously competed with Rouen. Caen was thoroughly smashed up during the Second World War when France was freed from the German invaders by Allied forces. Caudebec-en-Caux - Église Notre-Dame : Among the best 15th and 16th century glass I know of in France. Only Auch is more interesting. The window sets of three and four panels vary in size from about three metres wide and up to five metres high. Here is a detail from just one of them.
And the Parting of the Red Sea window bay is enhanced by making the Red Sea very, very red!
Two more Normandy churches at Louviers and Elbeuf, described below, also have interesting galleries of 16th century glass. |
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Saint Adrien, stained glass in Bay 22, église de Notre Dame, Louviers |
Louviers : Worth dropping into for its 16th century glass, if you are near by (see left). Elbeuf : Worth dropping into for its 16th century glass, if you are near by.
bibliography
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Stained glass tours in France |
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reprint CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform, 2016, pbk ISBN-10: 1530324246 |
reprint ISBN-10: 1341003604 |
kindle edition File Size: 227 KB |
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Michelin green guide Normandy | |||
Michelin, 9th edition, 2016 ISBN-10: 2067212443 |
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Northern France, handbook for travellers by Karl Baedeker |
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T. Fisher Unwin, 1909, 5th edition reprint $19.57 [amazon.com] |
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The cathedrals of Normandy by Jocelyn Perkins |
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Methuen & C. Ltd., 1935, hbk, |
This book is a very good source of the battering that cathedrals have received down the ages, especially if you do not wish to dig into the more detailed histories or the French sources listed here. | ||
Architecture and society in Normandy, 1120-1270 by Lindy Grant |
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Yale University Press, 1st ed, 2005, hbk ISBN-10: 0300106866 |
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Byzantine and Romanesque architecture by Thomas Graham Jackson |
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Volume 2 reprint |
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The armor of light: stained glass in Western France, 1250-1325 |
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University of California Press,1994, hbk ISBN-10: 0520051866 amazon.com |
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Les vitraux de Haute-Normandie [Corpus vitrearum, vol. 6] by Nicole Blondel and Martine Callias-Bey |
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CRNS/Monum-Editions du patrimoine/ Inventaire général, 2001, hbk ISBN-10: 2271055482 / in French |
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Les vitraux de Basse-Normandie [Corpus vitrearum, vol.8] by Martine Callias-Bey and David Victor |
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CRNS/Charles Corlet Editions, 2006, hbk ISBN-13: 978-2847062403 in French |
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Rouen, its cathedral and churches by Thomas Perkins |
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George Bell, 1900, hbk | |||
La cathédrale d'Évreux by Annick Gosse-Kischinewski et al. |
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Les Colporteurs, Évreux, 1997, hbk ISBN 10: 2951221606 in French |
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Petites monographies series: |
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Henri Laurens, Paris, pbk, (Series: Petites monographies des grands édifices de la France) in French |
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Mazes and Labyrinths: A General Account of Their History and Development |
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LONGMANS, GREEN AND CO. |
Project Guttenberg scanned copy | ||
Les Carrelages émaillés du Moyen-Age et de la Renaissance by Emile Amé |
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A. Morel et Cie, Editeurs, Paris 1859 |
A tapestry is a thick, highly decorated, woollen cloth. It can be made by two methods.
At first, the tapestry was shown in various places, jncluding churches or castles, in Normandy and England. Soon, no doubt, it was brought to the cathedral of Bayeux. The first written mention on the inventory of the treasure, dates from 1476. At that time, it was exhibited every year in the nave of the cathedral, for the festival of relics (July 1st to 8th). The relics of Bayeux play, in fact, an essential role in the story told by the tapestry: it is on them that Herbert gives William an oath he does not respect, as seen by Norman eyes.
During the French Revolution, the Tapestry was listed by the Commission des Arts, among the inventory of books and objects belonging to the cathedral. According to a well-established local tradition, ithe tapestry disappears, but is saved by a lawyer, Leonard Lambert-Leforestier. Under the Empire, in 1804, it was taken to Paris to be exhibited, while Napoleon was planning an invasion of England.
In 1842, it was exhibited continuously at Bayeux, first in a room of the Library, Place du Château then, in 1913, in the former house of the Dean. During the Second World War, it was the subject of a German scientific study conducted by Herbert Jankuhn. In 1944, it was shown in Paris for the second time, then returned to Bayeux. Since 1983, it has been preserved in the old seminary.
The lineage shown in the Jesse tree window at Le Mans cathedral comprises only five characters of a much greater possible list:
In general, the lineage
includes the following characters. Below is a typical Jesse
tree are accompanied by symbols, which may decorate
the Jesse tree. Bible sources are also included.
Adam and Eve, symbol : apple (Genesis 2:4-3:24)
Noah : ark or rainbow (Genesis 6:11-22, 7:17-8:12, 20-9:17)
Abraham : knife (Genesis 12:1-7, 15:1-6)
Isaac : ram (Genesis 22:1-19)
Jacob : ladder (Genesis 27:41-28:22)
Joseph : colourful coat (Genesis 37, 39:1-50:21)
Moses : tablets of the law (Exodus 2:1-4:20)
David : harp (1 Samuel 16:17-23)
Isaiah : lion and lamb (Isaiah 1:10-20, 6:1-13, 8:11-9:7)
Mary : lily (Luke 1:26-38)
Elizabeth : small home (Luke Joseph : hammer or saw (Matthew 1:18-25)
The full Jesse tree according to Luke, or to Matthew, is something else!
Luke 3:23-38, King James Version (KJV)
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